How to Clean a Washing Machine: 7 Proven Steps for a Spotlessly Fresh Machine

If you want to clean a washing machine properly, you have come to exactly the right place. Most people assume that a machine whose entire job is washing things must clean itself in the process. It does not. Your washing machine accumulates mold, mildew, soap scum, limescale, and bacteria in the very places your clothes never reach, and every load you put through a dirty machine picks up traces of that buildup. This is the reason your laundry sometimes comes out smelling musty, dingy, or just not as fresh as it should. Learning how to clean a washing machine correctly solves this problem at the root and keeps your clothes genuinely clean every single time.

In this guide we are going to walk through 7 proven, step by step methods for cleaning both front loading and top loading washing machines. We will cover the drum, the door seal, the detergent drawer, the filter, and the exterior. By the end, you will have a machine that smells clean, works efficiently, and produces genuinely fresh laundry on every cycle.

Why You Need to Clean a Washing Machine Regularly

Before we get into the 7 steps, it is worth understanding exactly what builds up inside a washing machine and why it matters. When you clean a washing machine, you are removing four primary types of buildup that accumulate with regular use.

Soap scum is the residue left behind when detergent does not fully dissolve during the wash cycle. This is more common when you use cold water washes, when you use too much detergent, or when you use lower quality detergents. The scum sticks to the inner surfaces of the drum and the detergent drawer and provides a surface for bacteria and mold to colonise.

Limescale forms when the minerals in hard water (primarily calcium and magnesium) precipitate out of the water during heating. It builds up on the drum, the heating element, and inside pipes. Limescale reduces the efficiency of the heating element, increases electricity consumption, and eventually causes mechanical damage. According to the U.S. Department of Energy, scale buildup on heating elements can increase energy consumption by up to 25 percent.

Mold and mildew thrive in the warm, damp environment inside a washing machine, particularly in the rubber door seal of front loading machines and inside the detergent drawer. Mold not only produces the characteristic musty smell that transfers to laundry but can also pose health risks, particularly for people with respiratory sensitivities or allergies.

Bacteria colonise the biofilm that forms inside the drum and on soap scum deposits. Studies have shown that unwashed laundry items carry significant bacterial loads, and without sufficiently hot wash cycles, these bacteria can persist on the drum surfaces. The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) recommends washing heavily soiled items at higher temperatures to ensure bacteria are effectively eliminated.

If you have noticed that your laundry comes out smelling musty even after washing, you may want to read our related guide on why clothes smell after washing and how to fix it, which covers the laundry side of this issue in detail.

What You Need to Clean a Washing Machine

Gathering your supplies before you begin makes the process of cleaning a washing machine smooth and uninterrupted. You will need white distilled vinegar, baking soda, a microfibre cloth or old sponge, an old toothbrush or small scrubbing brush, liquid dish soap, and optionally a commercial washing machine cleaner tablet such as Affresh or Dettol Washing Machine Cleaner.

All of these items are inexpensive and widely available. The white vinegar and baking soda approach is the most popular DIY method and is highly effective. Commercial cleaner tablets are a convenient alternative and work well as a monthly maintenance option once you have done the initial deep clean using the steps below.

Step 1: Clean the Washing Machine Door Seal

The door seal (also called the door gasket) is the rubber ring that creates a watertight seal between the drum and the machine door. On front loading machines, this is the most mold prone part of the entire appliance. Water collects in the folds of the seal after every wash and never fully dries out. Over time this creates the perfect environment for black mold and pink or orange bacterial slime to grow.

Pull back the rubber folds of the seal and inspect the interior. You will likely find accumulated lint, hair, coins, and dark mold growth. Remove any physical debris first. Then mix equal parts white vinegar and warm water in a bowl. Dip your cloth or sponge into the solution and wipe out the interior of all the folds thoroughly.

For established mold deposits, apply undiluted white vinegar directly to the affected areas using your cloth and let it sit for five minutes. Then scrub with your old toothbrush to remove the mold from the textured surface of the rubber. For very stubborn mold, a small amount of diluted bleach solution (one tablespoon of bleach per cup of water) applied carefully to the mold can eliminate it, but rinse very thoroughly afterward and never use bleach and vinegar at the same time as the combination produces toxic chlorine gas.

After cleaning, dry the seal completely with a clean cloth. Going forward, wipe the seal dry after every single wash cycle and leave the machine door slightly ajar to allow air to circulate and prevent moisture buildup.

Step 2: Clean the Detergent Drawer When You Clean a Washing Machine

The detergent drawer is the second most overlooked part when people clean a washing machine. It accumulates thick deposits of detergent residue and fabric softener that become gelatinous and provide an excellent breeding ground for bacteria and mold.

Remove the drawer entirely. Most detergent drawers release by pressing a tab at the back of the drawer while pulling. Once removed, rinse it under hot running water to loosen the top layer of residue. Then soak it in a bowl of hot water mixed with a squirt of dish soap for fifteen minutes.

Use your old toothbrush to scrub every compartment of the drawer, paying particular attention to the corners, the back edges, and the underside of any removable compartment dividers. Rinse thoroughly until the water runs completely clear. Check the drawer housing inside the machine (the slot the drawer slides into) and wipe it out with a damp cloth and vinegar solution, using the toothbrush to clean the back corners and the nozzle through which water enters the drawer.

Replace the drawer only once it is completely clean. Going forward, leave the drawer slightly open after each wash to allow it to dry, which dramatically reduces future buildup.

Step 3: Run a Hot Vinegar Cycle to Clean a Washing Machine Drum

This step addresses soap scum, bacteria, and limescale inside the drum and throughout the machine’s internal pipes and components. It is the single most effective step in the entire process of how to clean a washing machine deeply.

For front loading machines: Pour two cups of white distilled vinegar directly into the detergent drawer’s main wash compartment. Do not add any detergent. Run the hottest cycle your machine offers, typically labelled as 90 degrees, Cotton 90, or Sanitise. The hot water activates the acetic acid in the vinegar, which dissolves soap scum, breaks down limescale, and kills bacteria throughout the machine’s interior.

For top loading machines: Fill the machine with hot water on its largest load setting. Add four cups of white vinegar directly to the drum. Allow the machine to agitate for a minute to mix the vinegar throughout the water, then pause the cycle and let the vinegar water soak for one hour. Resume the cycle and allow it to complete fully.

After the vinegar cycle finishes, run a second empty hot cycle. This time add half a cup of baking soda directly to the drum. The baking soda neutralises any remaining vinegar odour, deodorises the drum, and provides a mild abrasive cleaning action as the water agitates it around the drum interior.

After both cycles, leave the door open for several hours to allow the drum to air dry completely. The smell of vinegar dissipates entirely as the machine dries.

Step 4: Clean the Washing Machine Filter

Most front loading washing machines have a pump filter that catches lint, coins, hair, and other debris before it reaches the pump. This filter needs to be cleaned regularly or it becomes clogged, which reduces the machine’s pumping efficiency, causes drainage problems, and creates odours.

The filter is typically located behind a small panel at the bottom front of the machine. Place a towel and a shallow tray on the floor in front of it before opening, as residual water will flow out when you open the filter housing. Unscrew the filter cap slowly and allow the water to drain into your tray.

Remove the filter completely and rinse it under warm running water. Use your toothbrush to remove all lint, hair, and debris from the filter screen. Wipe out the filter housing with a damp cloth. Screw the filter back in firmly to prevent leaks during the next cycle.

Top loading machines often have a lint filter inside the drum agitator or along the drum rim. Check your machine’s manual for the specific location and remove it following the manufacturer’s instructions. Clean it under running water and replace it.

Step 5: Clean the Exterior and Control Panel

While the interior cleaning steps above are the most important when you clean a washing machine, the exterior and control panel also benefit from regular attention. Dust, detergent drips, and grime accumulate on the machine’s surfaces and can eventually find their way inside the machine.

Wipe down all exterior surfaces with a cloth dampened in a mild all purpose cleaner or a diluted vinegar solution. Pay attention to the top surface where detergent bottles are often placed and drip. Clean the area around the door including the frame and hinges. Use a dry cloth to clean the control panel buttons, being careful not to allow moisture to enter the button mechanisms.

If the machine is on wheels or is free standing, pull it away from the wall and clean the floor beneath and behind it. Lint and dust accumulate in this area and can restrict airflow to the machine’s motor and ventilation components.

Step 6: Descale the Washing Machine If You Live in a Hard Water Area

If you live in an area with hard water (which affects roughly 60 percent of households in many countries), limescale buildup is a significant ongoing issue. White vinegar provides some descaling action in the drum cleaning step above, but for severe limescale buildup, a dedicated descaling product is more effective.

Products like Calgon or dedicated washing machine descalers contain powerful descaling agents that break down calcium and magnesium deposits throughout the machine. Use them according to the product instructions, typically once every one to three months depending on your water hardness.

You can check your local water hardness level by contacting your water supplier or using a home water testing kit. The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) also provides resources for understanding your local water quality. In very hard water areas, adding a small amount of Calgon or similar water softener to every wash is a worthwhile investment in the longevity of your machine.

Step 7: Set Up a Regular Maintenance Routine After You Clean a Washing Machine

The final step in how to clean a washing machine properly is establishing the habits that prevent the buildup from returning. Deep cleaning a machine is only worthwhile if you follow up with maintenance practices that keep it clean between deep clean sessions.

Run a monthly maintenance wash with either a commercial washing machine cleaner tablet or two cups of vinegar on an empty hot cycle. This takes virtually no active effort on your part and prevents the gradual accumulation of soap scum, bacteria, and limescale that leads to odour and reduced performance.

Wipe the door seal dry after every wash cycle. This single habit prevents mold growth in the seal more effectively than any cleaning product. It takes fifteen seconds and makes a dramatic difference over time.

Leave the machine door and detergent drawer open between uses to allow moisture to escape. A closed machine traps humidity inside the drum, which promotes the mold and bacterial growth you just worked to eliminate.

Use the correct amount of detergent for your load and water hardness level. Excess detergent produces more soap scum and is one of the primary contributors to a dirty machine interior. Most modern machines require significantly less detergent than the cap line on your detergent bottle suggests.

This connects directly to laundry performance: if you are using the right amount of detergent and keeping your machine clean but your clothes are still coming out with residue, our guide on how to remove tough stains from clothes covers targeted stain treatment that works alongside a clean machine.

How Often Should You Clean a Washing Machine?

The frequency with which you need to clean a washing machine depends on how heavily you use it and the quality of your water supply. For a household that runs three to five loads per week, a monthly maintenance hot cycle combined with a quarterly deep clean covers all seven steps in this guide. For households that do daily laundry, a maintenance cycle every two weeks and a deep clean every six to eight weeks is more appropriate.

The most reliable indicator that your machine needs cleaning is your nose. If your laundry is coming out smelling musty, or if you can detect an unpleasant odour when you open the machine door, those are clear signals that it is time to clean a washing machine regardless of when you last did it.

Front Loading vs Top Loading: Key Differences When You Clean a Washing Machine

Front loading washing machines are more prone to mold and mildew growth than top loading machines because their horizontal drum orientation causes water to pool in the door seal and the drum floor rather than draining away freely. This makes the door seal cleaning step especially critical for front loaders and explains why they require more frequent maintenance wipe downs.

Top loading machines are generally less prone to mold but more prone to soap scum buildup in the agitator and around the rim of the drum. When you clean a washing machine with a top loading design, pay particular attention to the underside of the lid, the agitator column, and the drum rim where fabric softener and detergent tend to accumulate in a visible ring.

Both designs benefit equally from the drum cleaning vinegar cycle, filter cleaning, detergent drawer maintenance, and regular ventilation between uses. The principles are the same; only the specific locations of buildup differ.

Signs Your Washing Machine Needs Cleaning Right Now

Beyond the monthly schedule, watch for these specific signs that tell you it is time to clean a washing machine immediately regardless of your last cleaning session. Black or dark spots on or around the door seal indicate active mold growth. A musty or sour smell when you open the machine door means bacteria or mold is already established inside. Laundry that comes out with a smell worse than when it went in is a clear signal. Visible white or grey residue on dark clothes after washing indicates soap scum or limescale deposits in the drum. Longer than normal drain cycles suggest the filter needs cleaning. If you notice any of these signs, run through the 7 steps in this guide before your next laundry load.

Common Mistakes People Make When They Clean a Washing Machine

The most common mistake is using too much cleaning product. When people decide to clean a washing machine, the temptation is to add generous amounts of vinegar, bleach, and baking soda all at once. Using too much vinegar can damage rubber components over time if it is not properly diluted or rinsed out. Mixing bleach and vinegar creates toxic chlorine gas and must never be done. Adding baking soda and vinegar to the same cycle causes them to neutralise each other before they can clean effectively; use them in separate consecutive cycles as described in the steps above.

Another common mistake is cleaning the inside of the machine while neglecting the filter. A sparkling clean drum combined with a clogged filter still produces drainage problems, reduced cleaning performance, and odour. The filter must be part of every thorough washing machine cleaning session.

Conclusion

Knowing how to clean a washing machine is one of the most valuable home maintenance skills you can have, and as you have seen, the process is far simpler than most people expect. The 7 steps in this guide cover every component that contributes to machine odour, reduced performance, and dirty laundry: the door seal, the detergent drawer, the drum, the filter, the exterior, the limescale, and the ongoing maintenance routine that keeps everything fresh between deep cleans.

A clean washing machine is not a luxury. It is the foundation of clean laundry. Once you complete this process and establish the simple maintenance habits, you will notice the difference in every load you wash. Your clothes will smell fresher, look brighter, and feel cleaner because the machine that washes them is actually clean itself.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q1: Can I use bleach to clean a washing machine instead of vinegar?

Yes, bleach is effective at killing mold and bacteria inside a washing machine. Add half a cup of liquid chlorine bleach to the detergent compartment and run an empty hot cycle. However, bleach does not dissolve soap scum or limescale the way vinegar does, so it addresses bacteria and mold but not all the buildup that a vinegar cycle targets. Never combine bleach and vinegar; use them in separate cleaning sessions with a plain water rinse cycle in between.

Q2: How do I clean a washing machine that has a very strong mold smell?

For a machine with severe mold odour, start with a thorough physical cleaning of the door seal using a diluted bleach solution as described in Step 1. Follow with the vinegar drum cycle in Step 3. Then run a second empty cycle with half a cup of baking soda. Leave the door and detergent drawer fully open for 24 hours after cleaning. If the smell persists after all this, the mold may have penetrated the interior of the rubber seal itself, in which case the seal may need professional replacement.

Q3: Is it safe to clean a washing machine with a commercial cleaning tablet?

Yes. Commercial washing machine cleaning tablets from brands like Affresh, Dettol, and Dr. Beckmann are specifically formulated for this purpose and are safe for all washing machine types. They are a convenient alternative to the DIY vinegar and baking soda approach and are particularly useful as a monthly maintenance tool once you have done the initial deep clean manually.

Q4: My washing machine smells clean right after cleaning but the smell returns within a week. Why?

This indicates that mold or bacteria is re establishing itself quickly because the conditions that promote its growth are still present. The most likely cause is that moisture is being trapped inside the machine between uses. Make sure you are wiping the door seal completely dry after every wash and leaving the door and detergent drawer open between uses. If the machine is in a humid room, a small fan or dehumidifier in the laundry area can help by reducing the ambient humidity that the machine draws in when the door is open.

Q5: How do I clean a washing machine that is a top loader without a dedicated cleaning cycle?

Fill the machine on the hottest setting and largest load size. Add four cups of white vinegar directly to the drum and allow the machine to agitate for one minute. Pause the cycle and let the vinegar solution soak for one to two hours. While it soaks, use a cloth dampened with undiluted vinegar to clean the top rim of the drum, the lid interior, and the agitator. Resume the cycle and allow it to drain and spin completely. Run a second cycle with half a cup of baking soda in the drum. This two cycle approach produces the same result as a dedicated cleaning cycle on machines that lack that feature.